My Guide to Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico
About an hour and a half drive from the Cabo airport sits Todos Santos. Named an official pueblo mágico, or magical town, by the Mexican government (there are over 100 pueblos mágicos in Mexico!), this tiny town is nothing short of, well, magic. Banners of papel picado blow lazily in the wind, art galleries and artisan craft shops line the cobblestone streets and the restaurants serve local, organic, farm to table fare. Drive 10 minutes and you’ll find pristine, mercifully uncrowded, beaches where you can laze in the golden sand, catch world class waves or spot some of the many migrating whales who call Baja their winter home.
For getting around, the best option is to rent a car as taxis are expensive and limit your freedom. If you are nervous about driving in Mexico, know that the roads in Baja are considered very safe so long as you obey the speed limit and stick to only short, local drives at night to avoid animals crossing the road. While many roads in Todos Santos are bumpy dirt paths, the highway between Cabo and Todos Santos is modern and the drive is a cinch to navigate. Parking for all of our recommendations is plentiful and free.
We used Cactus Rent a Car. Their reps will shuttle you two minutes from the airport to their facility and you’ll be on your way quickly. Note that liability insurance is mandatory in Mexico and your rental will automatically include this.
SLEEP:
The Todos Santos historic town center is quite small but has the greatest concentration of shops and restaurants. There are many other lodging options on the outskirts of town, mostly near the beach. Keep in mind that if you stay in the town center, you’ll need to drive to the beaches. Vice-versa if you stay at a beach hotel. Most properties in Todos Santos are small, so book early if you have a preference.
1) Hotel San Cristóbal This is my top pick for the area and one of my favorite hotels of all time. Drive 10 minutes south of Todos Santos and arrive at Hotel San Cristóbal, an oasis where the desert meets the sea. The swankiest joint in town, this Liz Lambert designed property stuns with its emerald swimming pool, intricate traditional tilework and polished concrete walls. There are two restaurants on site, featuring freshly caught fish hand delivered by the fisherman at Punta Lobos, the hotel’s beach. All aspects of the hotel, down to the chairs and textiles, were sourced, designed, and made in Mexico. The hotel offers yoga classes four times a week on their roof deck, salsa lessons on Saturday evenings, and Wednesday night beach bonfires.
2) Todos Santos Inn The home of a former sugar baron, this historic village inn was originally built in the 19th century and is Todos Santos’ only historic hacienda hotel. The design and decor evoke a bygone era, featuring beautiful brickwork, original ceiling beams and antiques throughout. Beds are swathed romantically in mosquito netting. A petite pool and delicious on site restaurant make this small hotel the perfect stay in town.
3) Los Colibris Casitas Located on a hillside with a stunning bird’s eye view of the beach below, Los Colibris Casitas is the place to go to get away from it all. This is a boutique hotel mixed with the privacy of a vacation rental. Situated at the end of a bumpy dirt road on the outskirts of town, each casita comes with its own sea view balcony, kitchenette and original, local artwork. A 10 minute walk brings you down to the beach where you can stroll for miles without seeing a soul.. Their chef cooks up a deliciously fresh breakfast and is even available for cooking classes and dinners. You’ll also find a beautiful pool, jacuzzi and sky deck for yoga.
The owners also run Todos Santos Eco Adventures and can organize a variety of excursions, day trips and activities for you.
EAT:
It’s hard to find a bad meal in Todos Santos, with options ranging from traditional Mexican, to Italian, to sushi to asian fusion. Our top picks are:
1) Caffé Todos Santos - A Todos Santos institution for locals and tourists alike. Indoor and outdoor seating with a casual vibe. We’ve heard rave reviews about the cinnamon buns at breakfast, but can personally recommend the huevos rancheros. The bougainvillia draped entryway is an Instagram dream.
2) Hierbabuena - I loved this place!. Seasonal menu with veggies picked straight from their on site organic gardens. I suggest taking a stroll around the property before or after your meal to check out what’s growing at the moment. Standouts here are anything that showcases the fresh vegetables, including salads and soups, and the brick oven pizzas. The Dusty Dog cocktail was delish.
Bonus: gluten free pizza crust and a variety of gluten free desserts are on offer.
3) La Esquina - Order at the counter and enjoy the open air ambience at this cozy spot just outside the town center. Fresh juices, smoothies, egg dishes, salads and sandwiches. The garden landscaping is impressive and the restaurant hosts fun events throughout the week such as Saturday night concerts.
4) Cafe Santa Fe - Upscale Italian cuisine, widely considered to be one of the best, if not the best, restaurant in Todos Santos, with prices to match. Located in a lovely restored building, the owners are from Northern Italy and have been running the place since 1990. Pastas and fish are fresh and delicious. The ravioli, which come in several varieties including lobster, come highly recommended.
5) Tacos y Mariscos El Sinaloense
No frills, just delicious, authentic seafood. Sit outside at one of the plastic tables and indulge in some of the freshest ceviche and tacos in Todos Santos. Tacos come with a self-serve platter of toppings such as cabbage, guac, and a variety of salsas so you can dress yours up just how you like. Do not neglect the margaritas, which are some of the best in town. Choose from classic, mango, strawberry or tamarind.
6) Baja Beans - Small batch, single origin, organic, coffee roasters and cafe in El Pescadero. Get all your specialty coffee drinks and buy bags of their local roasts on site. They also serve light food and pastries. The large, shaded patio, complete with wifi, is a comfortable place to relax. On Sundays, they host a local market complete with produce, clothing, jewelry and other artisanal items.
SHOP + DO:
Shopping
Todos Santos has a great shopping scene, especially if you’re into art and design. The best plan of attack is to simply walk the town center and pop into the variety of galleries to find what you like. These are some of our favorites:
1) Galería La Rosa - Youthful, colorful, unique and fun is how I would describe the pieces at Galería La Rosa. Come here for brightly colored works on canvas, many with catchy, inspirational sayings and phrases. In the spirit of Baja, I love the cactus paintings. You’ll also find creative greeting cards, souvenirs, homewares and decor. Bonus points for the cute shop kitty, Socrates. Follow him on Instagram.
2) Agua y Sol Joyería - This jewelry and souvenir shop stocks a nice variety of local pieces, including home decor, art and, of course, jewelry. I also love it because of the unique designs, reasonable prices and the fact that you can find a selection of Desert Soaps, a small batch soap and cosmetic company that makes their all natural products with local Baja ingredients. I’m partial to the Aloe Vera scent.
3) La Sonrisa de la Muerte - This gallery showcases modern Mexican graphic art at reasonable prices. Come here for the graphic prints as well as a selection of T-Shirts and stationery items. The exterior of the store makes for a great photo op.
4) Nomad Chic - On the pricier end of Todos Santos shopping, but with style in spades. An eclectic mix of truly unique pieces from around the globe including clothing, jewelry, accessories, home decor and accents. Nomad Chic specializes in items that you can’t find anywhere else and the owner, Linda Hamilton, knows many of the designers personally as a result of her travels around the world.
5) Bésame Mucho Bazaar - This eclectic shop is one of my favorites in town. Offering everything from incense burners, to buddha statues, to art, jewelry and apparel, the general vibe is hippie chic yogi. Come here for unique home decor, much of which is made in India and Mexico. A smaller selection of clothing is also available. The back garden, complete with tinkling wind chimes and bells, is lovely and not to be missed.
Outdoors:
Nature abounds in Todos Santos and the surrounding area. There are plenty of opportunities for solo exploration and relaxation, but I definitely recommend taking an organized day trip to snorkel with sea lions and whale sharks, as this is an experience unique to Baja California. Whale shark season runs from early winter to late spring. We used the company Todos Santos Eco Adventures. See more below.
1) Los Cerritos Beach - One of the few swimmable beaches in the area (most of the beaches have dangerous undertows and swimming is not advised), Cerritos makes for a great beach day. 15 minutes south of Todos Santos, located at KM 66 on the highway between Cabo and Todos Santos.
2) Punta Lobos - This beach is located directly in front of Hotel San Cristóbal. Not advised for swimming, the thing to do here is watch the local fishermen arriving with their fresh catch of the day. The way they maneuver their tiny boats in the big waves is seriously impressive! Enjoy a cocktail and a meal at Hotel San Cristóbal’s pool bar, which is open for lunch and dinner. Come in the late afternoon and stay for the sunset.
3) Playa Las Palmas (Playa San Pedro) - A beautiful and secluded pacific beach surrounded by palm trees. There are no facilities here, so come prepared if you plan to stay the day. A short walk through a palm tree grove leads you to the sea. Swim with caution here as the undertow can be strong. To find the beach, turn off towards the ocean on the dirt road at KM 58 on the highway between Todos Santos and Cabo - south of Hotel San Cristóbal and north of Los Cerritos, Baja Beans and Rancho Pescadero. Your hotel’s staff should be able to give you more specific directions as it can be a little tough to find, but they payoff is worth it!
4) Mario Surf School - Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or a total newbie, Mario Surf School is the place to go to catch some waves. Opt for a private lesson, board rental, full or multi day surf excursions. SUP excursions are also available. Surf lessons take place at Cerritos Beach, where the sea is safe and the waves are perfect for beginner surfers.
5) Todos Santos Eco Adventures - If nature, animals and the outdoors are your thing then you need to check out the activities offered by Todos Santos Eco Adventures. Owned by the same couple in charge of Los Colibris Casitas, you can be certain you’re in good hands. We took their day trip to the Sea of Cortez in La Paz (1.5 hours from Todos Santos, transportation included) to snorkel with sea lions, whale sharks and visit La Isla Espiritu Santo and it was the experience of a lifetime. In the middle of February the water was chilly, but full wetsuits are provided and do the job to keep you warm. All of TOSEA’s guides are professionally trained, bilingual and incredibly passionate about their subjects. Offerings include hiking and trekking, snorkeling, bird watching, fishing, horseback riding, surfing, whale watching, cooking lessons and more. Day trips provide lunch made by their amazing hotel chef. If you’re interested, they can even plan a full week’s worth of activities for you!
6) Tortugueros Las Playitas A.C. - This group is dedicated to the protection and conservation of the marine ecosystems in Baja California. One of their specific goals is to help restore the endangered Pacific Leatherback Sea Turtle population and, lucky for you, they host baby sea turtle releases on the beach several times a week. Check their Facebook page or contact them to be certain that a release is happening. Hatchlings are released on the beach most evenings around 5:30 pm.
Wellness:
Todos Santos is a haven for yogis. Hotel San Cristóbal offers morning yoga classes on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 - 10:15 on their beautiful roof deck overlooking the sea. Classes are free for guests. Inquire directly with the hotel if you’d like to take part but are not staying as a guest.
1) Rancho Pescadero - Is a beachfront hotel in El Pescadero that is home to a beautiful, tropical yoga shala. Morning flow for all levels is held every day at 10:00 am. Several times a week they also offer sunset vinyasa and candlelight restorative classes - contact the hotel directly to verify the schedule. Classes are free for hotel guests, but drop in price is 150 pesos. Arrive early as classes fill up. The hotel also hosts yoga and health retreats several times a year, see their website for details. If you are a diehard yogi, you may want to consider booking your accommodations here as well to take advantage of the classes. The property is gorgeous, with two farm fresh restaurants on site.
2) Cuatro Vientos - This meditation and movement studio hosts a wide variety of yoga, pranayama, meditation, tai chi and zumba classes in a secluded spot around the corner from La Esquina restaurant. They also have a lovely boutique on site where they sell yoga mats, accessories and other wellness related items. Check their website for the most up to date schedule and special workshops. Depending on the class, prices can range from donation based to 300 pesos.
3) The Joy of Floating - Float your way to bliss in Baja! This floatation therapy studio offers 60 ($60) and 90 ($85) minute float sessions. Located in El Pescadero next to Baja Beans, and close to Rancho Pescadero, so maximize your relaxation by floating pre or post yoga and coffee.
OUTSIDE TODOS SANTOS:
The entire Baja peninsula is chock full of gorgeous hotels, unique activities, stunning nature and fabulous restaurants. I am including a few honorable mentions outside of Todos Santos. You will most likely be flying into the San Jose del Cabo (SJD) Airport and thus will need to pass through the glitzy, resort-heavy Los Cabos on the way to Todos Santos. Day trips to La Paz are doable as well as it is only an easy 1.5 hour drive from Todos Santos.
Los Cabos :
1) Acre Baja - Acre is a combination boutique hotel, restaurant, organic farm and event space. Set in the hills close to Flora Farms, it is a lush garden sanctuary set apart from the hustle of Los Cabos. Accommodations are in luxury treehouses constructed from the branches of local trees, complete with outdoor showers. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is farm to table organic deliciousness. Be sure to walk the grounds after your meal to see the lovely pool and farm animals including peacocks, goats and Burrito, their sweet baby donkey. A free yoga class is held every morning at 9:00 am.
2) Flora Farms - A must visit if you’re in the area. 10 acres of organic farms set in the dusty Baja desert complete with a farm to table restaurant, shops, grocery and spa. If you’re a fan of a good Bloody Mary, be sure to order one here as they are legendary. Reservations are highly recommended well in advance, especially for dinner. Be sure to arrive early or plan to stay after so that you can take a look at the grounds. If you’d like a more in depth look at the farm, schedule a dedicated farm tour in advance. They also offer painting workshops every Thursday. Visit their website to view more details about all the offerings.
3) Cabo Trek - If you have a few hours in Cabo before or after you flight, why not do some whale watching? Cabo Trek’s whale watching tours last 2.5 hours and depart from the Cabo San Lucas Marina. Guides are professional marine biologists and part of the company’s mission is to study and protect humpback whales. At the time of our visit in early 2018, they had already identified almost 400 new whales in the area. On our tour we saw numerous flukes, sprays, and breaches right around the corner from the famous Cabo Arch. Whale season runs from mid-November to April. Tip: If you experience any motion sickness or are anxious on the water, sign up for the 8:00 am tour as the sea is much calmer and less crowded with other boats at this time.
4) San Jose del Cabo Mercado Orgánico - Every Saturday starting at 9:00 am you can visit the Mercado Orgánico and support local, artisan vendors. Stands sell everything from fresh fruits and vegetables, to matcha, to pizza, to all natural cosmetics, handmade jewelry, art and clothing. Live music accompanies your shopping and on the day we visited they were cooking up a giant pot of organic paella. Only about 20 minutes from the SJD Airport, this makes a great quick stop post-arrival or pre-departure.
My favorite vendors include Hilaria México and Liliana Gama Joyería Artesanal. Hilaria México offers unique hand woven apparel and home decor using natural materials. Think dreamcatchers, macaramé wall hangings, woven jewelry, knit bags and clothing.
Liliana Gama Joyería Artesanal sells handmade, artisan jewelry using natural stones. I scored some delicate bracelets, and tassel and feather earrings on my list trip. Prices are incredibly reasonable.
5) Isla Espiritu Santo - Camp Cecil - Bucket list alert! Who wouldn’t want to get off the grid in style? Owned by the proprietors of Los Colibris Casitas, Camp Cecil is luxury glamping on the island of Espiritu Santo, which is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Tents are located on a private, white sand beach and decked out with real beds, linens and rugs. There are nearby toilet and shower facilities. Despite the luxe accommodations, the camp runs entirely on solar energy and operates under the “leave no trace,” philosophy. All meals and activities are included. Food is cooked by a full time, on site chef. Bilingual, naturalist guides accompany you as you spend your days at leisure - hiking, snorkeling, birding, swimming with sea lions at Los Isolotes, or simply taking in the stunning scenery outside your tent. There’s only one thing you won’t get here: cell service, so unplug! Boats depart from La Paz, 90 minutes from Todos Santos, and are organized by the camp’s team. Two night minimum stay.
Tip: Combine a stay at Los Colibris Casitas with Camp Cecil and a Todos Santos Eco Adventures tour, as they’re operated by the same owners who can help arrange your entire trip.
