My Guide to Florence, Italy

Travel is probably one of my biggest passions. When I was working, I would spend my down time researching and planning trips. I actually find trip planning enjoyable - to the point that I do it for fun! Seriously, I’ve planned a ton of trips that we haven’t taken and have no immediate plans to take. I love a good TripAdvisor forum and could (and do) spend hours browsing hotel reviews. Airline fares and routes? I’ve got ‘em down pat. The latest buzzy hotel opening? It’s already bookmarked. Bali, Namibia, Cambodia, Chile, Hong Kong, Vietnam, South Africa, Banff, Santa Fe, Quebec City. The number of places on my wanderlust list is constantly growing. I used to daydream about quitting my job and traveling as much as I could. Lucky for me, I’m currently living a version of that dream.

Overlooking the Ponte Vecchio.

If there’s anything I love almost as much as actually traveling, it’s talking about travel and sharing what I’ve lived and learned. Please, can we discuss the most stunning caldera views in Santorini or the boho-chicest barefoot hotel in Tulum? Where can you find the best pain au chocolat in Paris or the cheesiest cacio e pepe in Rome? What’s your favorite Caribbean beach? Is Mykonos overrated? How did you deal with altitude sickness on the Inca trail? AirBnB or hotel?

Since I’ve been fortunate enough to travel to so many beautiful places, especially in this past year, I get a lot of questions about the places I’ve been. Nothing makes me more excited then when someone reaches out asking for recommendations or tips about an upcoming trip they’re taking. Seriously, I get SO excited. It’s like, do you want the CliffNotes version or the full guidebook? Because here’s an 87 page document detailing every aspect of my trip. And yes, since you asked, Mykonos is overrated.

So, I’m super excited to put together published guides for some of my favorite places on earth. I’m starting with Florence, Italy because it holds a special place in my heart. I studied abroad here in 2008 as a junior in college. It was my first trip abroad without my parents and my first time living so far away from home. I love Italy and, as an Italian major in college, I was thrilled to be immersed in the language. Though I didn’t appreciate it fully at the time, Florence is one of the world’s most stunning cities and is so full of culture and beauty at every turn. Oh, and the food? You pretty much can’t go wrong. We visited again this past summer in celebration of our 10 year study abroad anniversary and I fell in love all over with this amazing, medieval city in the heart of Italy.

Un caffé at Ditta Artiginale

Let me start by saying that none of my guides will talk about the main tourist attractions in any city. Like, if you’re visiting Florence I’m sure you’re already clued in about the Duomo and the Uffizi (and if you’re not, I can’t help you further). This guide will be in addition to the big, touristy things. Kind of an inside perspective, you know?

STAY

Florence has amazing, world class hotels. The Four Seasons looks like a dream. It also costs upwards of 900 euro a night. Personally, I prefer using AirBnB here because the prices are extremely affordable for the quality of the apartments that you can find and then you can spend your extra money on food and shopping! My favorite part of the city to stay in is the oltrarno neighborhood, which is on “the other side” of the Arno river (the side that the Duomo is not on). It’s much less touristy than the city center and offers a more local experience. It’s also full of artisan shops and trendy, delicious restaurants. I recommend finding an apartment here as well as walking extensively though all the tiny streets - you will stumble upon so many beautiful spots! Florence is compact, so even though the oltrarno is a bit outside the “center” of the city you are still within a 30 minute walking distance to most anything you’d want to visit.

Wine o’clock at Il Santino in the oltrarno

EAT

1) Trattoria Sostanza - Obsessed since 2008 with their petti di pollo al burro (butter chicken), which sounds simple but is life changing. Their house dessert with tiny, delicate wild strawberries is also delicious. This is my number one restaurant recommendation in Florence. Call to make a reservation for dinner, it’s very popular here. Closed Saturday and Sunday, and for the summer holidays in August/early September.

2) Gelateria La Carraia – My personal favorite gelateria in Florence. My order is always their “after eight” (mint chocolate chip) .

3) Ditta Artiginale – boutique coffee shop with two locations. Definitely not your traditional Italian bar (more American style – they have avocado toast! And eggs!), but they know their coffee and the space is really cool. They also do a good aperitivo in the evenings.

4) Il Santo Bevitore – Super cool restaurant with an awesome wine list. Traditional dishes with a modern twist. Friendly service. 

5) Il Santino – This is Il Santo Bevitore’s wine bar and is located right next door to the restaurant. Go for aperitivo or after dinner drinks. Awesome wine selection with great appetizers and bruschetta. It’s fun because it’s SUPER small so guests usually end up spilling into the street and just hanging out everywhere. The waiters can recommend wine based on what you like. Ours picked a white wine for us that he said, “would change us for life,” and I think he was right.

6) ‘Ino – Best sandwiches ever. Delicious bread and focaccia with melt in your mouth meats and cheeses. There are other, arguably more “famous,” panino shops with longer lines but I’d take ‘Ino over them any day. Maybe it’s something about the bright, light interiors or the subtle hum of prosciutto being freshly sliced piece by piece. The owner even has a cookbook all about the art of the Italian sandwich.

7) Vivoli – One of the oldest and most well respected gelaterias in Florence. Their signature flavor is “fantasia” (Sicilian cassata flavor – a type of Sicilian cake), but I had a melon sorbet here that was to die for.

Everyone loves gelato!

8) Trattoria Sant’Agostino 23 – Homey spot for hearty, traditional Tuscan dishes in the oltrarno. We ordered the pecorino stuffed onions (MUST TRY) and three different pastas here and nothing disappointed.

9) Trattoria Angiolino – Traditional Tuscan food. We’ve been multiple times for dinner because we love it so much. Recommend the steak (sliced version) or, if you like your steak superrrr rare, the famous bistecca fiorentina. All of the homemade pastas are stellar as well.

 10) Trattoria da Cammillo – Another traditional Tuscan spot, complete with bow-tie clad waiters. Make a reservation for dinner as it does fill up.

11) Gelateria Della Passera – Very tiny and cute old school gelato place in the most lovely piazza. All the fruit sorbets are amazing.

12) Caffe La Terrazza – I’m only including this because the view of the Duomo is amazing and it’s fun for aperitivo. It’s the café on the top floor of the La Rinascente Department store. Go in the store and take the elevator/escalator all the way up, and go early-ish if you want a table. Views are awesome, especially at sunset. Order a spritz. They bring you little snacks too.

 13) Palazzo Guadagni– This is a hotel in Piazza Santo Spirito, but they have a lovely balcony bar with views for aperitivo. Quiet and chill atmosphere.

14) Mercato Centrale Food Market and Food Hall- The central market has been around forever but they recently added a new upstairs food hall with tons of vendors. There are delicacies from all over Italy but standouts include the truffle pasta at Il Tartufo, the Neapolitan pizzeria and all the fried goodness at Il Fritto.

15) Ristorante La Giostra - This is the most upscale restaurant on the list and one of the top places in Florence. Beautiful interiors with an elevated menu of traditional dishes. Definitely the perfect spot for a special night out, reservations are a must.

View of the Duomo from Caffe La Terrazza

SHOP + DO

1) Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella – One of the world’s oldest “pharmacies,” founded in 1220. This is the BEST place to check out if you like perfumes and beauty products. They have tons of lotions, perfumes, soap, and cosmetics, and the building itself is absolutely gorgeous. They also have a little museum inside. A really unique place for souvenirs and gifts. They are especially known for their “acqua di rosa” (rosewater) tonic, I’m obsessed. I love this place!

2) Francesco Da Firenze – handmade, artisanal leather sandals, shoes and boots. It is pricey here but a one of a kind experience. They will also make you custom shoes.   

3)  9 Rosso – Super cute vintage shop and the owner is SO fun and nice. A lot of his items are designer or designed / made by the same producers as big, name brands. It’s a small shop but there are some gems to be found.

4)  Officina de’ Tournabuoni  - All natural, artisanal beauty and home products. Tons of skincare, perfume and other cosmetics. They also do homeopathy and herbalism. The shop ladies are really nice and knowledgeable about their products. I really love their room sprays. They even have a line of products for pets.

Having a relationship with my pasta at Trattoria da Cammillo

 5) The Mall Firenze - these are luxury outlets located about 30 minutes outside of Florence. You can take a shuttle bus here that leaves from the main train station in town. Lots of stores to choose from including, Gucci, Prada and the like.

6) Gucci Garden - Gucci Garden is a combination museum, shop and restaurant. Visiting the museum is worthwhile for those interested in fashion and the history of the brand. The shop is fun to browse, or buy if you’ve got the cash money. Famous chef Massimo Bottura is in charge of the restaurant.

7) Piazzale Michelangelo - Grab a taxi or the number 12 or 13 bus from the city center and head up to Piazzale Michelangelo for stunning panoramic views over the entire city.

8) Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens - most visitors to Florence visit the Uffizi, but not all make it over the river to Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens. In my opinion, this Medici palace and its back gardens are well worth the visit. If you like fashion and design, the costume and royal apartment sections of the palace are not to be missed. The manicured gardens are stunning on a sunny day. You can buy a combined ticket for the Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti and the gardens if you’d like to visit all three.

Views for days in Piazzale Michelangelo.